Monday, February 1, 2021

Sous-Vide-Que

 I didn't make up this term. It really is a thing. I figured it would be fun to try. I really like BBQ, especially the king if Texas BBQ, brisket. I am used to starting briskets late at night, leaving them in the smoker for 12-15 hours depending on size, thickness, etc. I am able to keep te smoking going because I use a Primo, the US brand of kamado style "grill". So proper BBQ pitmasters will look down their noses at a charcoal based, wood enhanced smoking apparatus, I can produce pretty decent BBQ quite consistently - without having yet another piece of equipment.

But I digree.

The Sous-Vide-Que technique changes the norms considerably. First off, the initial cooking is done low and slow sous-vide in a water bath.


And after a prodigious amount of time in the circulator, it is chilled (in my case for almost a week still in its bag, in the fridge) and then smoked at 275f until the internal temperature is about 150f.

There some surprising bonuses - the liquid remaining in the bag (and there is a lot of it), becomes some of the meatiest beef stock. So a basis for pho perhaps. The process in the circulator is entirely hands off. The ping pong balls here are in place to slow evaporation.

However, even though 150f was recommended to me, I would do it very differently next time. As we can see in the finished product,



 the fat seam is not fully rendeerd. Cleary 150f was too low a temperature. Next time I will multi-temp the circulator. 115 for the first 12 hours and 165 for the remaining 12 hours. Shorter time, higher temperature. The lower temperature is the tenderizing temperature; the higher temperature is the "cooking" temperature.

The other downside for me is that I can't do a whole brisket. So I have to do it it in 2 passes. First the flat and then the point. Surprisingly the flat came out better - but that was, I suspect, because it has less fat in seams inside, so didn't need as much rendering.

Is this recognisable as Texas BBQ? No, not really. Is it good? Yes, but could be a lot better.

Ingredients

1 Whole beef brisket, divided into the point and flat
1 tsp kosher alt per pound of meat
3/4 tsp freshly ground black pepper per pound of meat

Method - Part 1, Sous Vide

Season the meat liberally, all over with the salt and pepper. Place the point in a vacuum bag, and the flat in another. Leave in the fridge for at least 4 hours, preferably longer.

Set up the circulator at 150f and immerse one of the bags. Note, if you have a big enough container and a powerful enough circulator, you *might* be able to do both at the same time. If not, do them one afer the other, spaced 36 hours apart.

Put some kind of anti-evaporation device on top of the water, and cook for 36 hours at 150f. When done, remove the bag from the circulator, and chill fairly rapidly. If you are going to smoke it immediately, chill in an ice water bath. It needs to go into the smoker cold, otherwise it will dry out.

Method - Part 2, Smoking

Set up your smoker to cook at 275f. Make sure that you have plenty of white smoke coming off it. Meanwhile, slit the bag and collect any meat juices - there will be a lot. Reserve these for pho, a pan sauce or something. Don't throw them out. There is masses of flavor.

Put the meat into the smoker and smoke until the internal temperature is 145 or so. I had been advised not to let the meat temperature rise above the temperature of the circulator. I am not convinced by that advice.


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